Scrambling Course – Mont Blanc Prep


The stunning weather has continued in North Wales this weekend, and I was lucky to be working for Ibex Guides, a company run by friends of mine, IFMGA guides Rocio and Owen.  The basis was for six guys to be prepared for a guided ascent of Mont Blanc in a few months time.  So we aimed to cover the basics of ropework, and a large amount of ground, moving quickly and in good coordination with one another on the rope.

It was great to be working with somebody else in this terrain to share ideas and experiences. A new route on Tryfan for me which is very rare these days.

Day 1: we both headed to East Face Tryfan, to do Pinnacle Scramble (3+), which follows a fairly hard purely rock route up the central buttress, finishing on the Summit.


Mike, Olly, Gary and I got very cozy on a ledge, 1st pitch of First Pinnacle Rib!



It just keeps coming!  About 350m of Grade 3 scrambling


We chose to descend down the North Ridge (1). Where we practiced some roped lowers and stacked abseils.


On the Cannon Stone, Tryfan North Ridge.

Day 2: I think Rocio headed up the Seniors Direct Route, then Cneifion Arete.  While my team went up Idwal Buttress (2) and the Continuation Route (2), then I let them practice their lowers, short-roping and descent down the Idwal slabs exit gully.


Gary leading off, the photo of the day. Llyn Idwal in behind


Had to walk past this guy on the approach to the route. #scary


Olly rigging a 2 point belay, equalised, and running an italian hitch


Straddling the arete ‘sur cheval’


Cwm Idwal, North Wales




Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s